Kilimanjaro bestigning.

Udrustningen skulle pakkes godt ind. Min ven Henning til venstre.

I forbindelse med mit 2 årige ophold i Kenya , 1965, besteg jeg sammen med to andre danskere Kilimanjaro på en 9 dages tur. Jeg var 22 år på det tidspunkt, ingen mobiltelefon eller internet til rådighed og kun 750,- d.kr i løn om måneden.

Læs min beretning ud fra min dagbog der begyndte torsdag den 23.12.1965 ( lille juleaften ) til mandag den 31.12.1965.

På tilbagerejsen til Kenya, "smuglede / hjalp" vi en yngre indisk kvinde med at komme over grænsen mellem Tanzania og Kenya,- men derom senere.

NB: Jeg havde ikke kamera med ( kun 8 mm. smalfilm ) og har derfor været nødsaget til at kopiere billeder fra TripAdvisor og disse må kun benyttes, hvis TripAdvisor angives som kilde.

JEG GØR OPMÆRKSOM PÅ, AT ALLE BILLEDER DER VEDRØRER kILIMANJARO BESKRIVELSEN, ER KOPIERET FRA " TripAdvisor" OG DERES HJEMMESIDE. DOG ER NOGLE FÅ BILLEDER TAGET AF MIN VEN PER SOM VAR MED PÅ TUREN.

Kilimanjaro er det højeste bjerg i Afrika på 19,341 fod (5.895 meter), men det er ikke et bjerg i traditionel forstand. Det er en kæmpe stratovulkan, der begyndte at dannes for omkring en million år siden og består af mange lag hærdet vulkansk aske, lava, pimpsten og tephra - fragmentarisk materiale, der er nedfald fra et vulkanudbrud.

 

Kilimanjaro National
 Park, Tanzania: Kili

 

 

 

Dag 1 Day 1

 

 Nairobi, torsdag den 23. december 1965

Image

På vandrehjemmet YMCA i Nairobi vågnede jeg tidlig, frisk og udhvilet til at tage på safari. Jeg skulle sammen med to andre danske frivillige, Per og Henning. Vi spiste morgenmad kl. 7 og havde bestilt en taxi til kvart over. Bussen vi skulle med kørte som sædvanlig ikke til den fastsatte tid, så vi havde tid til at købe aviser og lidt at sutte på. Vi havde købt billetter på 1. klasse, så vi kom til at sidde godt. Man køber et helt sæde og så må man selv bestemme hvor mange man vil sidde,- to eller en hel familie.

 

 Masaikrigere i Ngorongoro Krateret.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  Masaierne møder andre folkeslag med en god portion skepsis, og vi europæere kaldes iloridaa enjekat – "dem der spærre deres prutter inde", hvor der hentydes til vores bukser contra deres luftige kapper. Det er masaiernes opfattelse, at alt kvæg på jorden tilhører dem, så det er en fortjentsfuld gerning at røve kvæg fra andre stammer, da krigerne blot henter deres ejendom "hjem" igen, men det har udløst mange stammekrige med naboerne. Mændene går klædt i et farverigt klæde kastet løst over skuldrene, og kvinderne er iført et skørt, men i vore dage eller udenfor landsbyen også et klæde over overkroppen. Desuden er kvinderne rigt behængt med smykker, da de bærer familiens formue på sig, hvor de går og står, og det er den sikreste beskyttelse, da en masai aldrig overfalder en kvinde. Masierne lever i vore dage på begge sider af grænsen mellem Kenya og Tanzania, hvortil de indvandrede fra det nordlige Afrika i det 15. århundrede, medbringende store flokke af kvæg.

 

Masaikvinder i landsby.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lidt i 9 kom vi afsted og snart var vi ude forbi Athi river og der begyndte grusvejen og det som hedder " Masailand". 

 220 km. skulle vi køre og i det ensformige landskab, syntes man ikke at komme nogen steder. Få kilometer fra grænsen til Tanzania gjorde vi holdt i en lille by for en time. Vi gik først ind på et hotel som så mange andre kun bliver besøgt af hvide. Der fik vi en øl og begyndte at spise vores medbragte mad. Det måtte vi imidlertid ikke, så vi skyndte os at drikke ud og komme væk. Bussen var kørt op til en benzintank, og der, ved siden af var en restauration for afrikanere. Det vrimlede med masaiere, som ikke så særlig hyggelige ud, men som er ganske ufarlige hvis man lader dem i fred.

 

 

 Videre gik det og ved grænsen til Tanzania skulle vi vise vores pas. Det var iøvrigt kun hvide og indere som skulle vise dem. Afrikanerne var de ligeglade med, da alle indbyggere i de østafrikanske lande, Uganda, Kenya og Tanzania frit kan rejse på tværs af grænserne. Efter grænsen kom vi ind på asfalt vej, så nu gik det lidt hurtigere og behageligere var det.

Ved 5 tiden om eftermiddagen nåede vi langt om længe byen Moshi, syd for Kilimanjaro. Himlen var overskyet, så vi kunne ikke se toppen. Vi fik efter en del råben og skrigen bukseret vores bagage ned fra bussens tag og der stod vi så og anede intet om hvor vi skulle gå hen. Vi vidste bare at vi skulle ud til  et hotel ved navn "Kibo", ca. 10 mills fra Moshi. På den anden side af hovedvejen stod noget der lignede varevogne, men der stod taxi på siden, så der gik vi over og gjorde dem forstå, at vi skulle til Kobo hotel. De kendte godt hotellet og vi blev enige om en pris af 30 shilling. Vi var trætte og sultne, så vi ville hellere end gerne ofre de 30 sh. for turen. Det er dyrt for 10 mills, men de skulle også have for tilbageturen, for hotellet ligger lidt inde i bushen og kan ikke få hyre tilbage.

Nå, i susende fart gik det og snart var vi der. Vi havde en måned i forvejen bestilt værelser, så efter et par sandwich og en kop te, var tre danske frivillige som skudt ud af en kanon oppe på første sal under dynerne. 

Forinden havde vi dog snakket med vores guide som skulle lede os og blev enige om at starte lige efter morgenmaden næste dag. Trods vores træthed, de dejlige senge med bløde skind som dyner, kunne ingen af os lukke et øje. Vi lå nemlig alle tre og tænkte på de kommende 80 mills vi skulle ud på. De dejlige senge kunne vi ikke tage med os. Æg med bacon, cornflakes og ristet franskbrød med syltetøj skulle vi ikke have de næste 6 dage. Nå, der er jo ingen som har bedt os om at tage derop, så det nyttede ikke at beklage sig. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dag 2 Day 2

Kæmpe senecio (senecio kilmanjari), der er nogle 4-5 meter høje planter.

 KILIMANJARO NATIONAL PARK

       MACHANE ROUTEKilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania: Килиманджаро

 Hovedindgang til Kilimanjao National Park,  Michane Gate 1.800 meter o/h.

 Kl. 8:00 den 24. forlod vi Kibo hotel med vanddunkene ( feltflasker ) fyldt op og en modbydelig masse hængende på ryggen i modsætning til idag (2016) hvor man kan hyre bærere til at tage alt det tunge og kun have ens egen dagsrygsæk over skulderen. En rygsæk fyldt op med pølser på dåse, førstehjælpstaske, pølsebrød, Buko smøreost, lygte, chocolade i lange baner, salt, tandbørste med creme, håndklæde, nivea creme, fotoudstyr, ekstra film, træningsdragt, stor strikketrøje, ekstra strømper og undertrøje, vanter plus en stor frakke som dem som der bruges på Grønland m.m. Oven på den herlighed, 2 tykke tæpper istedet for sovepose. Ialt 40 pund = 19 kg.

18 km. til første camp. 5 1/2 times vandring.

Afsted gik det og opad. Ikke så meget som 2 meter gik det lige ud. Nej, opad opad og endnu engang opad. Godt foroverbøjet og med solen bagende lige ned i hovedet, havde vi gået omkring 5 mill. ( 8 km.) da det begyndte at blive overskyet. Vi holdt et hvil og spiste et par appelsiner.

Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania: sure looks like a mountain to me!

På det første stykke vej gik det gennem plantage med kaffe, bananer og majs. Nu var vi kommet ind i tæt skov, en mellemting mellem tæt bush og regnskov. Ejendommelige træer og et ufremkommeligt buskads havde vi på hver side af den to hjulsporet vej. Det er nemlig sådan, at for rejseselskaber, kan det lade sig gøre at køre med Land Rover op til den første hytte 9200 fod hvis vejen ellers er tør.

 

Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania: Mount Kilimanjaro

JEG GØR OPMÆRKSOM PÅ, AT ALLE BILLEDER DER VEDRØRER kILIMANJARO BESKRIVELSEN, ER KOPIERET FRA " TripAdvisor" OG DERES HJEMMESIDE. FÅ BILLEDER ER TAGET AF MIN VEN PER SOM OGSÅ VAR MED PÅ TUREN. 

 

Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania: Our guides, day one!

Som vi skulle til at sætte igang igen, begyndte det at regne. Vores guide som kun kunne en smule engelsk, bad os hurtigt om at søge ly og det havde han ikke sagt før det regnede så stærkt, at inden vi nåede ind under et træ var blevet drivvåde. Velkommen i regnskoven. Nu begyndte det også at lyne og tordne, og lige stærkt regnede det. Vi havde gået ca. 5 mill. og der var lige så langt igen op til den første hytte. Vi havde ikke noget regnslag over vores tæpper, så de sugede vand som svampe,- og der kunne være meget vand i. Som det blev ved med at regne, sank humøret til nul og vi begyndte at snakke om at vende tilbage. Med de våde tæpper kunne vi ikke fortsætte til hytte 2, da det er meget koldt om natten højere oppe. Omvendt havde vi hjemme fra dog besluttet at uanset forhindringer på turen, måtte vi stå sammen og gennemføre bestigningen som planlagt. Vores guide fortalte os da langt om længe, at der i hytte 1 som hedder Bismark, var en pejs og det var muligt at få brænde deroppe og som tre lyn var vi ude i regnen og op ad den mudrede vej gik det. Store vandmasser strømmede ned ad vejen. Længere nede havde vi passeret et skilt hvor man advarede biler selv Land Rover'e i at køre op hvis der var tegn på regn, da stigninger visse steder er så stejle, at det kun med nød er muligt at komme op. Vi gik dog videre og det var som at stå i et badekar fyldt med vand og bruseren løbende for fulde haner. Mine støvler var ialfald to badekar. Vand behøvede man ikke at drkke mere for tørst, det kom af sig selv dryppende ned fra næsetippen.

Efter endnu et par timers gang, kunne vi nu se hytten og snart var vi der. Halvt kravlende med den efterhånden dobbelt så tunge bagage, smed vi os på sengene. Træsenge med halmmadrasser. Efter et kort hvil, begyndte vi at pakke ud. I det samme så vi en solstråle og snart var alle skyer væk og den dejligste blå himmel åbnede sig med solen skinnende ned til os. Vi fik spændt nogle snore op mellem træerne og der hang snart al vores drivvåde udrustning. Vores chocolade var efter de første 5 mill. nede i solen og varmen, løbet ud der hvor der var plads tilovers. Det var første gang vi havde set konservesdåser betrukket med chocolade og fyldte pølsebrød.

 

Machane camp ( Bismark ) 2.980 meter o/h

 I hytten som hedder "Bismark", bor en lille dreng som fik tændt op i pejsen og han lavede så en kop te til os og snart var vi på toppen igen. Med den lette brise og solen, kunne vi allerede så småt begynde at tage vores tøj ned, men tæpperne var endnu en del klamme.

Der var nu ankommet et nyt selskab, nogle amerikanere, 2 indere og en fra Jugoslavien. De blev kørt op i Land Rover og havde hver een til to bærere med til at tage bagagen. Ja, det er jo juleaften fandt vi pludselig ud af, og en dåse pølser blev åbnet og med et stykke fyldt pølsebrød gennemsivet af vand i den ene hånd og vanddunken i den anden, gik vi igang med julemiddagen. Grundet juleaften, kunne vi stramme den til to brød pr. næse !!!!  Da vi var færdige med at spise og drikke, begyndte vi at gøre klar til natten. Klokken var lige ved otte, men hvad skulle vores øjne skue. Det sidst ankomne selskabs bærere begyndte at dække julebord til 8 - 10 personer. Hytten var inddelt i tre rum. Vi havde taget det i midten hvor pejsen var og der stod også hyttens eneste spisebord. En hvid dug blev lagt på og snart var der et veldækket bord med øl, sodavand, varme retter, frugt m.m. og en meter over og et par meter til siderne, liggende under klamme tæpper, seks blå øjne stirrende ned på det velbefindede selskab. Godt trætte prøvede vi at falde til ro, men det Land Rover transporterende selskab ville ikke sådan lade juleaften passere selvom man sad i 9200 fod's højde, en hård tur foran sig,- men vi blev enige om, at de nok skulle få deres sag for. De begyndte endda at synge julesalmer og andre sange til langt hen på aftenen uden hensyn til os. GODNAT OG SOV GODT.

 Mount Kilimanjaro: Food

 

 

 

 

 

Dag 3 Day 3

Der skulle drikkes meget vand

Fra Machane camp ( Bismark ) til Shira camp. 3.840 meter o/h. 9 km. og 5 1/2 times vandring.

Lørdag 25. december klokken 7:00 om morgenen forlod vi hytte Mismark. I modsætning til dagen før hvor vi gik gennem regnskoven skulle vi nu over nærmest et hedelandskab med højt græs og lave buske. Nogle steder var det som at gå gennem en mose. Halvt mudder halvt vand. Vi krydsede en hel del vandløb hvor vi slukkede tørsten. På halvvejen mødte vi et par unge mennesker som dagen i forvejen havde forsøgt at nå toppen, men havde opgivet på grund af den tynde luft der var deroppe,- altså højdesyge. Med kun nogle få hvil nåede vi også op til hytte 2 kaldet " Peters hut" ( Shira camp ) liggende i 12.940 fods højde, ca. 3840 meter. Mærkelig nok kom jeg ca. 10 minutter før de andre til hytte nr. 1 dagen i forvejen, men en halv time efter de andre  til hytte 2. Jeg tror nok det var de sidste 200 meter før hytten jeg var en halv time om.

 

Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania: Килиманджаро, выше облаков

Nu var vi kommet over det første skylag, men trods det, kunne det i løbet af ganske få minutter blive helt tåget så man kun kunne se få meter for sig og koldt blev det. I hytten her var også senge, men uden madresser, så vi skulle ligge på de bare brædder og ikke som så mange andre der havde luftmadresser med. Vi var ved hytten ved godt et tiden om eftermiddagen. Rejseselskabet fra hytte 1 ankom kl. 17:00 uden andet at bære på end dem selv. Efter et kort måltid, men ikke som i går, pølser, brød og vand,- men vand, pølser og brød til en forandring, og gik så i seng kl. 18.

 

Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania:
 This is our tent at the Barranco Camp. There was an amazing view of the summit, which looks lik

 Ligesom i den første hytte blev der dækket fint op, men hvem havde ikke energi til at trække sig ud af soveposerne, synge julesalmer og ellers nyde de stille aftentimer... det var vores lille rejseselskab. Nå, godt ord igen, det kunne være det var dem der kom til at prale med at have været på toppen, så vi holdt vores mund.

Af dyr deroppe så vi kun nogle små fugle, nærmest som vores gråspurve, men mere runde og dunet, edderkopper og firben. I ordets egenlige forstand sov vi hård den nat, men var friske søndag morgen den 26. og forlod så hytte nr. 2. 

 

 

Dag 4 day 4

Ankomst til Peters Hut med udsigt til toppen.

Fra Shira camp ( Peters hytte ) til Barafu camp. 4.550 meter o/h. 7 timers vandring. 

Søndag den 26. december.

De første par mills gik nærmest gennem klippeskær, men stadig opad, opad og opad. Et skilt på stien oplyste os om, at her var sidste chance for at få vand. Vi fyldte alt op hvad vi havde af dunke og beholdere med det dejligste kolde kildevand. For ikke at komme til at dehydrere skal man drikke mindst 2 - 3 liter vand hver dag. Også brænde skulle man tage med sig hvis man ville have en smule varm te deroppe i den sidste hytte.

 

Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania: 水場

 

Lidt om højdesyge.  ( Akklimatisering )

Højdesyge skyldes mangel på ilt og kan forekomme allerede fra ca. 2.500 meters højde, for personer, der ikke er vant til højderne, men oftest først ved 3.000 – 4.000 meters højde. Vejrtrækningen styres normalt af blodets surhedsgrad, og under anstrengelser forbrænder vi ekstra mange kalorier, hvorved blodet bliver mere surt og vi trækker vejret kraftigere og hurtigere så vi får den mængde ilt der behøves (meget kort fortalt). I 5.500 meters højde er iltmængden halveret, hvilket længe inden da kan give en hel række symptomer såsom hovedpine, kvalme, svimmelhed, opsvulmede øjenlåg, åndenød, træthed m.m., så det er egentlig utroligt, hvad man selv frivilligt vil udsætte sig for.

Der findes 2 former for højdesyge, hvor den ene er væske i lungerne, der kan opstå ved 2.400 meter, og den anden er hjerneødem ( ophobning af væske i hjernen), der kan opstå over 3.600 meter. Begge former for højdesyge kan medføre døden, hvis symptomerne ignoreres, og der er faktisk flere, der dør på Kilimanjaro hvert år.

Den bedste kur er at gå ned igen til mere iltrig luft, og ellers skal man hvile eller blive i samme højde til symptomerne dæmpes og kun fortsætte, når man føler sig bedre, og det anbefales faktisk, at man kun stiger 500 meter pr. døgn, hvis man er over 3.000 meter.

Så pole, pole, som afrikanerne hele tiden sagde (langsomt, langsomt), og drik masser af vand. Lægemidlet Diamox der er vanddrivende, anbefales ofte til forebyggelse af højdesyge og skulle bl.a. give en bedre søvn, men det er ikke et godkendt middel til det formål og mange læger vil ikke udskrive recept på midlet.

 Det siger sig selv, at med kun 3 overnatningshytter på turen op, overskrider man nemt de anbefalede 500 højde meter pr. døgn og når derfor ikke at akklimatisere.

Vi havde ikke hørt om disse faresignaler og personlig troede jeg faktisk at min træthed skyldes den lange dagsmarch og ikke højdesyge. Det kunne have gået gruelig galt.

 Til daglig arbejder vi i Nairobi som ligger i 1800 meters højde, så der havde vi måske en fordel i forhold til dem som kommer fra laverliggende områder.

 

 Hidtil havde vi gået gennem lav bush landskab op til en bjergkam og der oppe fra åbnede der sig nu et enormt ørkenlandskab, 6 mills bredt over til den anden side stødende op til foden af det egenlige Kilimanjaro. Her oppe fra  kunne man se over til bjergsiden med hytte nr. 3, Kibo Hut ( idag hedder den Barafu camp og ligger 4.550 meter o/h ) og synes som en lille prik, men i forhold til det høje bjerg alligevel ikke så langt borte, så efter en kort pause, smed vi rygsækkene på ryggen igen og vadede afsted. Vi skulle først et stykke nedad. Det var til en forandring helt rart, men derefter gik det over til tørt sand og grusørken med en stor sten hist og her strittende op og som man velsignet kunne sætte sig på. Trods det at vi gik og gik, føltes det som at der var nogen der begyndte at  flytte hytten, for den forblev at være lige langt væk.

 

Billedresultat for billeder fra kiliMANJARO

 Mange var på vej ned, nogen lykkelige, nogen mindre og det var forbavsende let at se forskel. Et par mill's igen og vi holdt et længere hvil, for selvom det gik lige ud, gik det alligevel opad.

Det blev mere og mere tydeligt, at højdesygen tog på kræfterne. Man gik nærmest og hev efter vejret, hovedpine og kvalme. Benene blev tunge og føderne slæbte nærmest hen ad jorden og uden hytten som pejlemærke, gav det ingen mening at fortsætte.

Langt bagved os havde vi kunne se rejseselskabet og da de nåede op til os, satte vi i gang igen. 2 mills, 2 timers gang tilbage til sidste hytte. En amerikaner som lå udstrakt på jorden, sagde da vi smed rygsækken på ryggen og skulle til at gå " vi skal nok samle jer op på vejen når vi passerer jer" .

Da vi to dage senere talte med ham igen, havde han ikke kunne nå toppen. Surt.

En mills igen og tempoet var så en skildpadde kunne følge med. Det var ikke fordi det gik stejlt opad, men den lange dagsmarch, de 20 mills dagene i forvejen samt den tynde luft, havde taget alle vores kræfter. Per og Henning holdt hvil for hver 25 meter nu, men jeg følte, at mine ben gik på automatik, så jeg turde ikke stoppe de 10 meter i minuttet jeg gik, men fortsatte. Jeg nåede op til en bærer og i ham gik jeg lige i hælene og det var ligesom jeg blev suget med og med eet var jeg ved hytten. Jeg satte mig på en sten og et helt kvarter sad jeg med rygsækken på ryggen, for udmattet til at kunne tage den af. Først da Per og Henning kom op, smed jeg den. Jeg troede det var løgn, men de satte sig også på en sten med rygsækken hængende bag på.

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NB NB NB. Det skal lige bemærkes, at alt hvad jeg har nedskrevet og vil blive skrevet, er taget ordret fra min dagbog jeg havde med på turen for at få et så realistisk billede som muligt af oplevelserne time for time, dag for dag.

 

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 Henning (tv.) og jeg sidder ved sidste hytte Barafu 4.550 m. o/h ved foden af bjerget og får os en pølsemad.

.Henning ( to the left) and I sit at the last hut Barafu 4,550 m. o / h at the foot of the mountain and get us a sausage food.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Opstigningen The ascent

De sidste meter op til målet. The last meters up to the goal.

De sidste 1195 meter opad i 45 graders vinkel, ligger foran os. Over midnat skulle vi stå vores prøve.

Da jeg var kommet til kræfter igen, smed jeg alt tøjet og tog den tørre træningsdragt på som jeg havde i rygsækken og det gennemsvedte tøj, undertrøje, skjorte, bukser, strømper og støvler lagde jeg ud i solen. Trods sne mellem stenene og opad hytten, var det ligefrem varmt på grund af det var vindstille. Det var med at få tøjet tørt, for det skulle jeg have på i nat og er det bare den mindste smule klamt, vil man komme til at fryse så man måske ikke ville være istand til at fortsætte.

Klokken var 2 eftermiddag og Kilimanjaro viste sig i hele sin herlighed for os, med de enorme snemasser hængende ud over kratersiden og kæmpe klippeformationer fra tidens lavamasser stikkende vandret ud fra bjergsiden,- ud i rummet. Her stod man i 15430 fods eller ca. 5 km.  højde, i en stilhed uden lige og ventede på at det skulle blive nat.

Ja, skulle man tage fusen på alle dem som har grint af en, skulle man vise familie og venner hvem man er, om det så var det sidste man skulle, så skulle den forbandede top bestiges. Uden egenlig at vide hvad man gik ind til, så træt at man ikke tænkte på noget andet, kan jeg bagefter se det befriende i, at have nået at være på Afrikas højeste bjerg. En spænding uden lige. Man havde i tre dage trodset regnen, den bagende sol, stejle bakker og skrænter, levet næsten på minimum  af føde, ligget og sovet på brædder, så ville det være ærgeligt at opgive de sidste 1 1/2 mills til toppen.

Efter aftensmaden, denne gang brød, vand og pølser, gik vi til ro ved 6 tiden, med støvler og alt hvad man kunne skrabe sammen af beklædning. Jeg krøb i min hjemmesyede lagenpose og viklede mine to tæpper om mig. Lige før mørket sænkede sig, begyndte det at sne, så vi snakkede om at det hele måske ville gå i vasken hvis det blev for meget. Hen mod natten bliver det op imod 5 - 6 graders frost og det kunne godt mærkes. Hytten var ligesom de øvrige, bygget af aluminiumsplader og foret indvendig med brædder. Også i denne hytte var der senge, men kun med brædder, men med alt tøjet på lå vi ganske blødt. Det var ikke til at lukke et øje for kulden, så vi lå engang imellem og snakkede, mens vi ind imellem blundede.

 

 

 

 

 

   

Dag 5 Day 5

Der er ikke meget is og sne tilbage 2016.

Mandag den 27. kl 01:00 blev vi vækket af vores guide . Der var kul sort udenfor og hundekoldt og havde mest lyst til at blive liggende under de varme tæpper. Efter en kop varm te han havde lavet til os, startede vi det sidste stykke vej op til toppen. Med lygten i den ene hånd og en stav i den anden, gik det skridt for skridt langsomt opad. Indtil nu havde vi gået på en stigning på 45 grader, men nu begyndte vi at gå i siksak og lavagrusen begyndte at blive mere løs. Med en afstand af 20 meter til den ene side og 20 til den anden, kom vi kun få meter højere op hver gang. Nogen gange hvis man trådte for kraftigt, skred man lidt nedad og kunne begynde forfra. Man gik 4 skridt, hvilte, 4 igen, hvil og for hver skridt et halvt tilbage.  I begyndelsen gik jeg bagerst, da kun guiden og jeg havde lygte med.                                                                                           

 

Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania: Summit

 Hængende på min stok, prøvede jeg at følge trop, men kom til sidst længere og længere bagud. Vi blev da enige om, at jeg skulle gå lige bag guiden og det hjalp da osse. Det var stadig mørkt, men i skæret  af stjernerne , kunne vi hele tiden se klippeskær højt over os hvis vi lagde hovederne tilstrækkeligt tilbage. Ingen ide om, hvor vi var startet. Ingen ide om, hvor langt der var tilbage. Et 6 timers langt stræk. I mørke. Mod Stella Point. Punktet hvor Kilimanjaro plateauet nåes og stigningen aftager. 

 

 Når man kikkede ned troede, troede vi det løgn, for nu var stigningen blevet til mellem 50 og 60 grader. Vi gjorde et hvil i en hule som var dannet af naturen. Derinde sad vi i 10 minutter og spiste istapper som hang ned fra loftet. Der blev spist mange, for trods kulden, 6 - 10 grader, svedte vi. Nu da vi sad stille, begyndte vi alligevel at fryse, især om føderne, så vi blev enige om at fortsætte.

 Dybt dybt nede kunne vi se lygterne fra rejseselskabet og der blev efterhånden længere og længere mellem lysene.

 Nu kunne vi se en hvid stav pege op mod himlen. Det måtte være "Kiliman Point". Det højeste punkt mod øst. Trods med målet i sigte, blev tempoet ikke sat op, men med de samme overvejende skridt fortsatte vi. Vi hev efter vejret og der var ingen som talte, alle havde nok med at bruge den smule ilt han kunne få. Jeg var begyndt at få en dunrende hovedpine, svimmelhed og næsen dryppede konstant, men kunne ikke overkomme at tørre den. En kold brise var begyndt at sætte ind og jeg følte det som om mit hoved var ved at springe.

Der var lige så lang vej igen, men det var lige som om benene gik af sig selv nu, men lige langsomt gik det. Efter endnu et par timers gang / klatring, begyndte man så småt at kunne se de første solstræf i øst. Et par stjerneskud så vi på den store himmel og der var ingen tvivl om hvad vi alle tre ønskede.

 

Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania: You won't get a more beautiful sunrise.

 

                                        --------------------------------------

NB: Det ville idag ( 2016 ) være en alvorlig advarsel om højdesyge og skal så hurtig som muligt sørge for at vende om og søge nedad.

 

                                    -------------------------------

Jeg var efterhånden så træt, så hver gang jeg skred et par meter, var ved at bryde ud i gråd og det føltes totalt meningsløst. Målet var lige langt væk, men stædigheden blev stærkere og man kæmpede som var det det sidste og eneste der gjaldt i verden.

De sidste 15 meter op, skulle vi klatre på klippeblokke og over snedriver.

 

Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania: Back from the
 Summit, Down from Stella Point

Uden egentlig at ane det, sad jeg nu ved siden af en masse flag og et skilt og stirrede lige ned på den sten jeg sad på. Først nogle minutter senere, løftede jeg hovedet og begyndte at se mig omkring. Mod øst kunne man se en stor del af vores klode, men trods alt kun en lille plet. Det var begyndt at blive lysere, men man kunne stadig se stjernerne. Det var som om man kunne tage dem ned med hænderne. På den anden side mod vest, åbnede sig et enormt krater, med skyhøje snemasser i sit indre. det var umuligt at bedømme afstande, men et bud ville nok være et par hundrede meter i diameter.

Så gav vores guide os " Gæstebogen" og vi skrev så vores navne. Jeg skrev mit navn, dansk frivillig, arbejder for National Youth Servise i Kenya og datoen 27. december 1965, kl. 5:45 pm. Klokken var blevet kvart i seks og solen begyndte nu at sende de første solstråler " op " mod os. Fingerne var som istapper, så det blev kun til nogle få glimt med mit smalfilmskamera og helt lyst var det ikke blevet endnu. Koldt var det, og inden man anede det, var vi på vej ned igen. Vores guide rådede os til kun at være deroppe 20 til 30 minutter på grund af højden. 

Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania: Glacier

 

 

Kilimanjaro National
 Park, Tanzania: Finally, up there although I didn't make it to Uhuru peak-:(

 Kiliman point eller Stilla point som det hedder idag 2016, er ikke det højeste punkt på Kilimanjaro, men et punkt længere nord på kaldet "Uhuru Pount", 19.400 fod eller lidt over 6 kilometer højt. Punktet jeg var på ligger i ca. 18.600 fods højde.

Per og Henning havde dog kræfter nok til at gå helt til Uhuru Pount og har senere set smalfilm fra turen som Per har optaget. Godt gået gutter. Jeg foretrak dog at bevæge mig tilbage til hytten.

 Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania: Sunrice at Kili

 

 __________________________________________________________________________________ 

Der kan forekomme tastatur- og stavefejl, men disse vil løbende blive rettet når jeg læser korrektur. --------------

 

 

  

Nedstigning

 

Nedturen gik en del stærkere. Det var bare et spørgsmål om at holde balancen, så gled man automatisk ned. På vejen forbi hulen, mødte vi rejseselskabet. Der var svundet godt i det. De kvindelige deltagere som var med, var vent om. Solen var nu begyndt at blive skarp og skinnede lige ind på bjergsiden, så det ville blive en streng tur at komme til toppen nu. Det er nemlig fidusen ved at gå om natten selv om det er koldere, men sneen på toppen har en isskorpe som først smelter når solen står op.

Vi fortsatte ned, men efterhånden kunne vi ikke mere lade os glide og løbe var man for træt til. Det var ret anstrængende at gå ned, da man hele tiden skulle holde igen og ens tåspidser begyndte at gøre ondt. Der blev spist en hel del sne og pauser blev der holdt endnu flere af. Længere nede kunne vi nu begynde at se hytte tre Barafu point. Det synes som om man kunne springe ned på den,- men desværre nej. Normalt kan man komme ned på en time, men jeg var lidt over to om det.

Aldrig har jeg været så træt. Hjertet hamrede mod ribbene og jeg stod stille for hver fire skridt. Ved hytten bød nogle piger på te og på alle fire blev kursen sat lige ind i seng.

Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania: Glaciers

________________________________________________________________________________

  

The downturn was part stronger. It was just a matter of keeping the balance, then slid it down automatically. On the way past the cave, we met the travel company. There was diminished in the well. The female participants who were present were waiting for. The sun was just starting to be sharp and shone straight into the hillside, so it would be a rigorous trip to get to the top now. It is the trick by walking at night even though it's colder, but the snow on top has a crust of ice that melts only when the sun rises.

We continued down, but eventually we could no more allow ourselves to slip and run you were too tired. It was quite tiring to go down as one must constantly hold back and your toes started to hurt. There was eaten quite a lot of snow and breaks were held even more of. Further down, we could now begin to see the cabin three Barafu points. It seems as if you could jump down on it - but unfortunately no. Usually you can get down in one hour, but I was a little over two about it.

Never have I been so tired. The heart was pounding against the ribs and I stood still for every four steps. At the hut saw some girls on tea and on all four set course straight into bed. X 

__________________________________________________________________________________

 Klokken 12 begyndte jeg turen tilbage til Peters hytte ( Shira camp ) hvor vi skulle overnatte. Uden nogen form for træthed nåede jeg derned 2 1/2 time senere og fortsatte der med ar sove. Per og Henneing kom lidt senere og lagde sig osse til at sove. Vi følgte ingen form for sult. Kun tørst.

 

30. december 1965

Efter en dejlig nat vågnede vi og begyndte vandringen ned mod Kibo hotel. Vi fik dog en kop te inden vi startede, men ellers ikke noget. Halv elleve var jeg ved hytte Mismark, men på vejen havde jeg mødt endnu nogle der ville gøre forsøg på at nå toppen. De fik da lige nogle tips om hvad jeg havde erfaret. Ved Bismark hytten havde jeg regnet med at kunne købe en øl eller sodavand, men der var udsolgt, så drengen der lavede en kop kaffe til mig. Den smagte himmelsk.

Da Henning og Per ankom, blev en blomsterkrans sat på vores hoveder og der blev råbt hurra. Vi tog fotos af hinanden og kort efter var vi på vej nedad igen.

Klokken 1 middag nåede vi Kibo hotel, hvor vi først drak en øl sammen med vores guide og skrev et par ord i hans gæstebog. Det var ikke så få gange han havde været på toppen. Siden 1956 havde han arbejdet som guide og det er hver dag året rundt folk prøver at bestige vulkanen. Vi fik et ordenligt tiltrængt måltid mad og efter mange håndtryk tog vi afsked med vores meget dygtige og venlige guide og Kipo hotel.

 ______________________________________________________________________

  

Y At 12 pm. began the trip back to Peter's hut (Shira camp) where we had to stay overnight. Without any fatigue, I reached down 2 1/2 hours later and continued with scars sleep. Per and Henneing came a little later and lay Ossetians to sleep. We følgte no form of hunger. Only thirst.

 December 30, 1965

 After a lovely night we woke up and began the walk down to Kibo hotel. We did get a cup of tea before we started, but otherwise nothing. Half eleven I was at the cabin Mismark, but on the road I met a few more that would make the effort to reach the top. They were then just some tips on what I had learned. By Bismark hut I had expected to be able to buy a beer or soda, but that was sold out, so the boy who made a cup of coffee for me. It tasted heavenly.

 When Henning and Per arrived, a garland put on our heads and the cry hurray. We took photos of each other and soon we were on the way down again.

 At one dinner, we reached Kibo hotel where we first drank a beer together with our guide and wrote a few words in his guestbook. It was not a few times he had been on top. Since 1956 he had worked as a guide and it is every day of the year people try to climb the volcano. We got a properly-needed meal and after many handshakes we said goodbye to our very skilled and friendly guide and Kipo hotel.  Y

 __________________________________________________________________________________ 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tilbage til Nairobi. Back to Nairobi.

 

Torsdag den 30 december 1965

Vores næste mål var Moshi, for der skulle vi med bussen tilbage til Nairobi klokken 20:00. Vi tog en taxi derind, men denne gang kostede det kun 4 sh. pr. næse, da det var en form for busser der kørte konstant frem og tilbage mellem Moshi og en mindre by. Klokken 21:00 forlod vi Moshi.

Da vi skulle til at sætte i gang, kom en indisk dame op i bussen. Der var ikke mange ledige pladser ned igennem bussen, men da vi havde købt plads på " 1. kl." havde vi de to forreste sæder. Per og Henning sad på det forreste og jeg lige bag ved og vi havde aftalt, at vi på skift kunne tage en lur på det sæde. Den indiske dame som var midt i tyverne, spurgte om der kunne blive en ledig plads til hende, og det blev vi enige om at det kunne der godt blive.  Da vi havde kørt et stykke tid, kom vi i snak. Hun skulle også til Nairobi hvor hun bor til daglig, men havde lige været på besøg hos noget familie i Moshi. Hun var kommet over grænsen til Tanzania nede ved Dar es Salaam sammen med nogle venner og var nu på vej hjem via Moshi. Sit pas havde hun mistet nede ved Dar og ville nu prøve at komme over ved grænsen vi også skulle passere, der mente hun ikke der var paskontrol om natten. MEN DET VAR DER.

Da vi standsede ved grænsekontrollen, så vi to grænsebetjente komme imod bussen. Vi måtte lynhurtigt finde en plan, for hun kunne ikke så godt forlade bussen uden at blive opdaget. Vi blev enige om at hjælpe hende og så tage skraldet hvis det ikke lykkedes. Jeg tog min store frakke med skindkrage af og gav hende den på. Hun sad ved vinduet, mig ved siden af og Per og Henning på sædet foran os. De to afrikanske betjente kom op i bussen og kikkede ned langs rækkerne. Vi sagde til hende, at hun skulle lade som om hun sov og tage hætten godt over hovedet så man ikke kunne se hendes ansigt. Adrealinen pumpede rundt i kroppen på mig, for hvad ville der ske hvis vi blev opdaget. Betjentene spurgte efter vores pas og Per viste sit først. Han kikkede på det og åbnede det for at kontrollere billedet. Han spurgte om vi kom fra England, men måtte fortælle at vi var danskere og arbejdede i Kenya for National Youth Service i Nairobi. Det sagde ham nok ikke så meget så han bad så om Hennings pas. Billedet passede og indhold var det samme som Pers. Nu kom turen til mig og for at distrahere ham, begyndte vi at fortælle, at vi lige har besteget Kilimanjaro og var meget trætte. Samtidig tog vi vores kranse frem og tog dem på hovedet for at vise at det var rigtig nok. Nu bad han om mit pas,- han tog det og kikkede på det udenpå og det var magen til Per og Hennings. Inden han gav mig det, pegede han på "pigen" under frakken og der brød vi ind og sagde at vi var sammen alle fire. Vi fortalte, at han havde været meget syg på grund af højdesyge og han var meget træt. Jeg ved ikke om det var en gæstus, men betjenten ønskede os tillykke og god tur videre til Nairobi. De steg af bussen og den kørte videre over grænsen og mod Nairobi. Det vi frygtede var, om nogen af de andre passagerer ville opdage noget, men dem som sad nærmest os, sov eller var ligeglade. Menneskesmugling som kunne have kostet os noget ekstra ferie bag tremmer. 

__________________________________________________________________________________

#    

Thursday, December 30, 1965

Our next goal was Moshi, for which we had with the bus back to Nairobi at 20:00. We took a taxi there, but this time it cost only four shillings. per. nose because it was a form of buses that were constantly running back and forth between Moshi and a small town. At 21:00 we left Moshi.

When we had to put in the time, was an Indian lady on the bus. There were not many places available down the bus, but when we had bought space on the "first time." we had the two front seats. Per Henning sat on the front and I just behind and we had agreed that we in turn could take a nap on the seat. The Indian lady who was in her mid twenties, asked if there could be a vacancy for her, and we agreed that it could well be. After driving for a while, we started talking. She also had to Nairobi where she lives every day, but had just been to visit some family in Moshi. She had come across the border into Tanzania at the Dar es Salaam together with some friends and was now on his way home via Moshi. His passport had she lost down at the Dar and would now try to get over the border we had to pass that she did not think there was passport control at night. BUT IT WAS NOT THAT.

When we stopped at border control, we saw two border policemen coming towards the bus. We had to quickly find a plan because she could not as well leave the bus without being detected. We agreed to help her and then take the fall if unsuccessful. I took my big coat with fur collar and gave it to her on. She sat by the window, me beside and Per Henning on the seat in front of us. The two African officers came up the bus and looked down the rows. We told her that she had to pretend she was sleeping and take the cap over his head so you could not see her face. Adrealinen pumped around the body on me, what would happen if we were discovered. The officers asked for our passports and Per showed his first. He looked at it and opened it to check the image. He asked if we came from England, but had to tell that we were Danes and worked in Kenya for the National Youth Service in Nairobi. It told him probably not as much as he then asked Hennings passport. The image fit and content was the same as Pers. Then came the trip to me and to distract him, we began to report that we have just climbed Kilimanjaro and was very tired. At the same time we took our wreaths and took them upside down to show that it was really enough. Now he asked for my passport - he took it and looked at it outside and it was similar to Per and Hennings. Before he gave it to me, he pointed to the "girl" under his coat and we broke in and said that we were together all four. We were told that he had been very sick because of altitude sickness and he was very tired. I do not know if it was a gæstus, but the officer wished us congratulations and good trip on to Nairobi. They got off the bus and drove on across the border and from Nairobi. What we feared was whether any of the other passengers would discover something, but those who sat near us was asleep or indifferent. Trafficking in human beings which could have cost us anything extra holiday behind bars.  Z

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 Efter 8 timers rumlen i bussen uden at have lukket et øje, ankom vi til Nairobi klokken 5 om morgenen.

 

Nairobi den 31. december

Stive over hele kroppen, bevægede vi os hen til YMCA vandrehjemmet. Jeg havde nu ikke haft mine støvler af i omtrent 48 timer og jeg følte det som om mine fødder blødte fra store sår, så jeg var spændt på at få dem smidt. Jeg fik løsnet snørrebåndene, trak støvlerne af og forsiktig også strømperne,- og de sad fast. Storetåen på begge fødder var store vandblærere. På hver af de andre tæer, viste der sig åbne blodige sår og med kødet blottet. På skulderne sad blære ved blære og vidnede om, at de havde båret en ikke særlig behagelig rygsæk, 80 mills, 5 dages dagsmarch.

Det var beretningen om min bestigning af Afrikas højeste bjerg 

                                                         Kilimanjaro       

 

Fortsættelse følger         To be continued

__________________________________________________________________________________

W #   After 8 hours rumble of the bus without having slept a wink, we arrived in Nairobi at 5 o'clock in the morning.

 

Nairobi December 31

Stiff all over, we moved to the YMCA hostel. I now had not had my boots in about 48 hours and I felt like they were bleeding from large ulcers, so I was excited to get them evicted. I got loosened laces belts, pulled his boots and CAUTION also stockings - and they were stuck. The big toe on both feet was big vandblærere. On each of the other toes, there appeared open bloody wounds and with the flesh exposed. On the shoulders sat bladder at the bladder and testified that they had worn a not very pleasant backpack, 80 mills, 5-day day's march.

                      It was the story of my ascent of Africa's highest mountain

                                                          Kilimanjaro  W

 Min pc er midlertidig til reparation. Kommer tilbage om nogle dage  26.01.2016


To be continued To be continued

                                                       

Only english

 

A    # During my two-year stay in Kenya, in 1965, I climbed along with two other Danes Kilimanjaro on a 9 day trip. I was 22 years old at the time, no mobile phone or internet and only 750, - d.kr available a month.

Read my report from my diary that began Thursday 12.23.1965 (Christmas Eve) to Monday 12/31/1965.

 

On our return trip to Kenya, we helped a younger Indian woman illegally to cross the border between Tanzania and Kenya - but more about that later.

NB: I had no camera with (only 8 mm. Cine) and has been forced to copy images from TripAdvisor and these may only be used if TripAdvisor as source therefore meets this requirement.

 

I POINTS OUT THAT ALL IMAGES RELATED KILIMANJARO DESCRIPTIONS ARE RIPPED OFF "TripAdvisor" AND THEIR WEBSITE.

 

Kilimanjaro is the highest mountain in Africa at 19,341 feet (5,895 meters), but it isn't a mountain in a traditional sense. It is a giant stratovolcano that began forming about a million years ago 

 

Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania: Kili

 

and is composed of many layers of hardened volcanic ash, lava, pumice and tephra — fragmental material that is the fallout from a volcanic eruption. A

 

B   At the hostel YMCA in Nairobi, I woke up early, fresh and rested to go on safari. I was with two other Danish volunteers Per Henning. We ate breakfast at. 7 and had ordered a taxi to a quarter past. The bus we were in was running as usual, not at the appointed time, so we had time to buy newspapers and some to suck on. We had bought tickets in first class, so we got to sit well. You buy an entire seat and then you have to decide how many people will sit, - two or a whole family.

 

At 9 we came away and soon we were out past Athi river and began gravel road and it called "Masai Land".   B

Masai meetings other peoples with a good dose of skepticism, and we Europeans called iloridaa enjekat - "those who block their farts inside", which alludes to our pants versus their airy capes. The Masai believe that all cattle on the earth belong to them, so it's a fortjentsfuld deed to rob cattle from other tribes as warriors just get their property "home" again, but it has triggered many tribal wars with neighbors. The men are dressed in a colorful dress thrown loosely over her shoulders, and the women are wearing a skirt, but nowadays or outside the village also a cloth over his upper body. In addition, women are richly hung with jewelry since they carry the family fortune on themselves when they walk and stand, and it is the surest protection when a Masai never assaults one kvinde. Masierne living today on both sides of the border between Kenya and Tanzania, which they immigrated from North Africa in the 15th century, bringing with large herds of cattle.  C

 

D #  220 km. we should run and in the monotonous landscape, seemed not to get anywhere. A few kilometers from the border with Tanzania, we stopped in a small town an hour. We first went into a hotel, like so many others only visited by whites. There we got a beer and started to eat our picnic. It had, however, we do not, so we hurried to drink out and get away. The bus was driven up to a gas station, and there, next was a restau tion for Africans. It teemed with masaiere, not so very cozy, but that is quite harmless if left alone. D

 

 E #   Onwards we went and at the border with Tanzania we had to show our passports. By the way only whites and Indians who had to show them. The Africans were indifferent when all residents of the East African countries, Uganda, Kenye and Tanzania can travel freely across borders. After the border we came into the asphalt road, so now it went a little faster and more pleasant it was.

 

At 5 o'clock in the afternoon we reached finally the town of Moshi, south of Kilimanjaro. The sky was overcast, so we could not see the top. We got after some yelling and screaming bukseret our luggage off the bus roof and there we stood and had no idea where we go. We just showed that we were going to a hotel named "Kibo", ca. 10 mills from Moshi. On the other side of the highway stood nogeet are similar vans, but there was a taxi on the side, so we went over and made them understand that we were going to Kobo hotel. They knew well the hotel and we agreed on a price of 30 shillings. We were tired and hungry, so we would also be happy to sacrifice the 30 shillings. for the trip. It is expensive for 10 mills, but they should have the return journey also, the hotel is just inside the bush and so can not hire back.

 

Well, gallop went and soon we were there. We had a month in advance booked rooms so after a couple of sandwiches and a cup of tea, three Danish volunteer who shot out of a cannon on the first floor under the duvet.

 


Before that, however, we talked to our guide that would lead us and agreed to start right after breakfast the next day. Despite our fatigue, the lovely beds with soft fur as quilts, none of us could close an eye. We lay for all three and thought of the coming 80 mills we were going on. The lovely beds we could not take with us. Eggs with bacon, corn flakes and toasted bread with jam we should not have the next 6 days. Well, there's no-one has asked us to go up there, so it was useless to complain. E

 

I POINTS OUT THAT ALL IMAGES RELATED KILIMANJARO DESCRIPTIONS ARE RIPPED OFF "TripAdvisor" AND THEIR WEBSITE.

 

#   Kl. 8:00 on December 24. we left Kibo hotel with water cans filled up and a disgusting lot hanging on our backs as opposed to today (2016) where you can hire carriers to take all the burden and only having one's own daypack over his shoulder. A backpack filled with sausages in tin, first aid kits, hot dog buns, Buko cream cheese, light, lots of chocolate, salt, brush with cream, towel, nivea cream, fotoudssstyr, extra film, tracksuit, big sweaters, extra socks and underwear, mittens plus a big coat as those which are used in Greenland and more. Upstairs, the glory, two thick blankets instead of sleeping bag. A total of 40 pounds = 19 kg.

 

Off it went upwards. Not only 2 meters went straight out. No, upwardly facing up and once again upwards. Well bent and with the sun rear right on the head, we had gone about five mills (8 km) as it began to get cloudy. We stayed a rest and ate a few oranges.

 


The first stretch of the road went through the plantation of coffee, bananas and corn. Now we come into the dense forest, a cross between dense bush and rainforest. Peculiar trees and an impassable thicket we had on each side of the two wheels track road. The fact is that for untrained and people with money, it may be possible to drive with Land Rover up to the first hut 9,200 feet if the road is dry enough.  F

G #   As we were about to drive off, it began to rain. Our guide who could only a little English, asked us quickly to seek shelter and he had not said before it rained so heavily that before we got under a tree had been drenched. Welcome in the rainforest. We sat there with big drops dripped down our weary shoulders. Now it began also to unzip and thunder, and equally strong rained. We had gone about 5 mill. and that was as far back to the first hut. We had no rain cover over our blankets so they could absorb water like sponges - and there could be much water in. As it continued to rain, the mood sank to zero and we started talking about returning. With the wet blankets we could not continue to cabin 2 because it is very cold at night higher. Conversely we had at home, however, decided that regardless of the obstacles on the trip, we had to stand together and implement the climb as planned. Our guide told us as long last, that the cabin one called Bismark, had a fireplace and it was to get up there and burn as three lightning we were out in the rain and up the muddy road went. Large masses of water flowed down the road. Further down we passed a sign to warn cars Yourself Rover'e running up if there were signs of rain when increases in some places are so steep that it is only just possible to get up. We did, however, survive and it was like standing in a bathtub filled with water and use failed continuously for full cocks. My boots were at any rate, two bath. Water was no need to drkke more for thirst, it came by itself dripping down from the tip of the nose.
After a few hours of time, could now see the hut and soon we were up there. Half crawling with the now twice as heavy luggage, we threw ourselves on the beds. Wooden beds with straw mattresses. After a short rest, we began to unpack. At that moment we saw a ray of sunshine and soon all the clouds away and the beautiful blue sky opened up with the sun shining down on us. We got excited some strings up between the trees and hung soon our entire drenched equipment. Our chocolate was after the first 5 million. down in the sun and heat during out there where there was room to spare. It was the first time we had seen chocolate covered cans and filled sausage bread. G

H #  In the cottage called "Bismarck", live a little boy who had lit up the fireplace and he then made a cup of tea for us and were soon on top again. With the light breeze and the sun, we could already slowly begin to take our clothes down, but the carpets were still some damp.
There was now arrived a new company, some Americans, two Indians and one from Yugoslavia. They were driven up in Land Rover and had every one to two carriers to take the luggage. Yes, it's Christmas Eve we suddenly found out, and a can of sausages was opened with a piece filled sausage bread permeated by water in one hand and water bottle in the other, we went to Christmas dinner. Due to Christmas Eve, we could tighten it to two loaves per. nose !!!! When we were finished eating and drinking, we started getting ready for the night. The time was about eight, but what should our eyes behold. The newest company carriers began to cover the Christmas table for 8-10 people. The cabin was divided into three compartments. We had taken it in the middle where the fireplace was, and there was also the hut only dining table. A white cloth was put on soon and there was a beautifully set table with beer, soda, hot dishes, fruit, etc. and one meter above and a few meters to the sides, lying under damp blankets, six blue eyes staring down at the happiness of company. Tired we tried to calm down, but the Land Rover operating company would not be such a let Christmas pass even though you were in the 9200 foot altitude, a hard ride ahead of them - but we agreed that they would get their case to . They even started to sing Christmas carols and other songs well into the evening without regard to us. GOOD NIGHT AND SLEEP WELL.  H

I #   Saturday, December 25th at 7:00 in the morning we left the cabin Mismark. Unlike the day before when we walked through the rain we had now almost a moor landscape with high grass and low shrubs. Some places it was like walking through a bog. Half half mud water. We crossed a few rivers where we turned off thirst. Half-way we met a few young people who the day before had tried to reach the top, but had given up because of the thin air that was up there - that altitude sickness. With only a few rest, we also reached up to Cottage 2 called "Peter's hut" (Shira camp) lying in the 12,940 foot elevation, about 3840 meters. Oddly enough, I came about 10 minutes before the other to cabin no. 1 day in advance, but half an hour after the other to the cottage 2. I guess it was the last 200 meters before the hut I was half an hour I

J #    Now we got over the first layer of clouds, but even so, it could in just a few minutes will be quite foggy so you could only see a few meters of themselves and cold it was. In the cottage here was also beds but no mattresses, so we had to lie on the bare boards, not like so many others who had luftmadresser with. We were at the cottage know one o'clock in the afternoon. Travel company from Cottage 1 arrived at. 17:00 without anything to wear on than themselves. After a meal, but not like yesterday, sausages, bread and water - but water, sausages and bread for a change, and then went to bed at 18:00 .  J

#   Like in the first cabin was covered up fine, but who did not have the energy to pull out of our sleeping bags, singing Christmas carols and otherwise enjoy the quiet evening hours ... it was our little holiday party. Well, good words again, it could be they were the ones who came to boast of having been at the top, so we kept our mouths.

For animals up there we only saw some small birds, almost as our sparrows, but more round and downy, spiders and lizards. In the word's own sense we slept hard that night, but was fresh Sunday morning on 26 and left the cabin no. 2.  K

L#    Sunday, December 26.

The first few mills went closest through rocky outcrops, but still up, up and up. A sign on the path informed us that this was the last chance to get water. We packed up everything we had of cans and containers with the nicest cold spring water. In order not to come to dehydrate you should drink at least 2-3 liters of water every day. Also burn you would take with you if you wanted a bit of hot tea up there in the last hut.  L

#   About altitude sickness.

Altitude sickness caused by lack of oxygen and can occur as early as about 2,500 meters altitude, for people who are not accustomed to the heights, but most often by 3,000 to 4,000 meters. Breathing is normally controlled by the blood's acidity, and the efforts we burn extra calories by which the blood becomes more acidic and we breathe faster and faster as we get the amount of oxygen needed (very brief). In 5500 meters altitude is the amount of oxygen halved, which long before then can provide a whole range of symptoms such as headache, nausea, dizziness, swollen eyelids, shortness of breath, fatigue, etc., so it's really amazing what you yourself would voluntarily expose themselves to.

There are two forms of altitude sickness, one of which is fluid in the lungs, which can arise from 2,400 meters, and the other is brain edema (fluid accumulation in the brain), which may occur more than 3,600 meters. Both forms of altitude sickness can lead to death if the symptoms are ignored, and there are actually more people die on Kilimanjaro each year.

The best cure is to go back down to more oxygen-rich air, and otherwise you have to rest or be at the same height of the symptoms dimmed and only proceed when you feel better, and it is recommended, that only rises 500 meters per second. day, if you are over 3000 meters.

So, pole pole, Africans constantly said (slowly, slowly), and drink plenty of water. The drug Diamox is a diuretic, is often recommended for prevention of altitude sickness and had in particular provide better sleep, but it is not an authorized agent for that purpose, but many doctors will not print prescription product.

 It goes without saying that with only three overnight cabins on the trip up, exceeds easily the recommended 500 meters per second. days and when, therefore, not to acclimatise.

We had not heard of these danger signs and personally I actually thought that my fatigue caused by the long day's march and not altitude sickness. It could have gone terribly wrong.

 For daily work we are in Nairobi, which is situated at 1,800 meters altitude, so that we might have an advantage over those that come from doing lying areas.  M

So far we had gone through the low bush landscape up to a crest and from up there opened up now a huge desert landscape, 6 mills widely over to the other side adjacent to the foot of the final Kilimanjaro. From up here you could see over the hillside cabin no. 3, Kibo Hut (today called the Barafu camp at 4,550 meters o / h) which is like a tiny dot, but compared to the high mountain seemed hut not far away, so after a short break, we threw backpacks on påryggen again and waded away. We first had a piece down. It was for a change quite nice, but then it went over to the dry sand and gravel desert with a large stone here and bristling up and which one blessed could sit on. Despite the fact that we walked and walked, it felt like there was someone who began to move the cabin, for it remained to be just far away. N

NB NB NB. It should be noted that all I have written and will be written, taken verbatim from my diary I had on the trip to get as realistic a picture as possible of the experience hour by hour, day by day.  O

#   Many were coming down, no happiness, no less, and it was amazingly easy to tell the difference. A few mill's over and we kept a longer rest for even though it went out, it went still upward.

It became increasingly clear that højdesygen took on forces. It went almost panting for breath, headaches and nausea. The legs were heavy and feeders dragged almost to the ground and outside the cabin as a guideline, gave no sense to continue.

far behind us we see the travel company and when they reached us, we set off again. 2 mills, 2timers time back to last cabin. An American who was stretched out on the ground, said when we threw the backpack on his back and had to go: we'll pick you up on the road when we pass you !!!!!

When we two days later spoke to him again, he could not reach the top. Surt.

An mills again and the pace was so a turtle could follow. It was not because it went steeply, but the long day's march, the 20 mills days in advance, and the thin air, had taken all our forces. Per Henning stopped to rest every 25 meters now, but I felt that my legs went on automatic, so I did not dare stop the 10 meters in munuttet I went, but continued. I reached up to a carrier and in him I went in hot pursuit and it was like I was sucked in and suddenly I was at the cottage. I sat on a stone and a whole neighborhood, I sat with the backpack on your back, too exhausted to take it off. Only when Per and Henning came up, I threw it. I thought it was a lie, but they also set itself on a rock with backpack hanging back.  P

 Q #   The last 1,195 meters up in the 45 degree angle, lie ahead. Over midnight we should be our test.

When I regained my strength back, I threw all my clothes and two gden dry track suit in which I had in my backpack and through sweat clothes, underwear, shirt, pants, socks and boots I lay out in the sun. Despite the snow between the rocks and up the cabin, it was downright hot because it was windless. It was to get clothes dry, for I should have on in the night and it is even slightly damp, you will feel cold so you might not be able to continue.

The time was 2 afternoon and Kilimanjaro showed itself in all its glory for us, with the huge masses of snow hanging over the crater side and huge rock formations from future lava plenty sticking vertically out from the hillside - into space. Here was one of the 15,430 foot or about 5 km. height, in a silence outside just waiting for it to become night.

Yes, you had to take the Mickey out of all those who have laughed at one, you had to show family and friends who are you wondering if it was the last one were, so were the cursed top climbed. Without really to know what you went in for, so tired that we did not think about anything else, afterwards I see it liberating by having been up there on Africa's highest mountain. A voltage without equal. They had three days braving the rain, the scorching sun, steep hills and slopes, lived almost a minimum of food, been sleeping on boards, then it would be a shame to give up the last 1 1/2 mills to the top.

After dinner, this time bread, water and cold, we went to bed at 6 the time, with boots and everything you could scrape together clothing. I huddled in my home-made sheet bag and wrapped my two blankets on me. Just before darkness fell, it began to snow, so we talked about it all might go in the sink if it bled too much. Towards night it becomes opmod 5-6 degrees below zero and it could well be labeled. The cabin was like the other, built of aluminum sheets and lined inside with boards. Also in this cabin there were beds, but only with boards, but with all my clothes on was we quite soft. It was not to close an eye to the cold, so we were sometimes talking while we sometimes dozing.  Q

R Monday 27th at 01:00 we were awakened by our guide. There was black outside and freezing cold and really wanted to be left unde the blankets. After enkop hot tea he had made for us, we started the final steps to the top. With flashlight in one hand and a stick in the other, went step by step slowly upward. Until now we had gone on a rise of 45 degrees, but now we began to walk in zigzag and lavagrusen began to be more loose. With a distance of 20 meters on one side and 20 on the other, we came just a few meters higher up every time. Sometimes if you stepped too hard, progressed to slightly down and could start again. Man walked four steps, rested, 4 again, rest and for each step and a half back. In the beginning, I went in the back, as only the guide and I had the lamp with. Hanging on my stick, I tried to follow suit, but eventually came further and further behind. We were then agreed that I should go straight baking wizard and it helped when Ossetians. It was still dark, but the glow of the stars, we could always see rocky outcrops high above us if we put heads enough back.

No idea where we started. No idea how much was left. A 6-hour long stretch. In the dark. Towards Stella Point. The point where Kilimanjaro plateau is reached and the increase decreases.

 When you looked down thought, we thought it a lie, for now, the increase was between 70 and 80 degrees. We made a rest in a cave which was formed by nature. In there we sat for 10 minutes and ate icicles that hung from the ceiling. There were eaten many, for despite the cold, from 6 to 10 degrees, we sweated. Now as we sat quietly, we started anyway to freeze, especially at the feeders, so we agreed to continue.

 There was just so much to do, but it was just as if the legs went of themselves now, but just slowly went. After a few hours of walking / climbing, began slowly to see the first solstræf in the east. A few star shoot, we looked at the vast sky and there was no doubt havd all three of us wanted.

 Deep deep down we could see the lights from the travel company and gradually became longer and longer between the lights.

 Now, yes now we could see a white wand pointing skyward. It had to be "Kiliman Point". The highest point on the east. Despite the goal in sight, the pace was not set up, but with the same predominantly steps we continued. We gasped for breath and there was no one who spoke, everyone had enough to use what little oxygen he could get. I was starting to get a dunrende headache, dizziness and nose dripped constantly but could not manage to dry it. A cold breeze had begun to set in and I felt like my head was about to jump. R

      There was just so much to do, but it was just as if the legs went of themselves now, but just slowly went. After a few hours of walking / climbing, began slowly to see the first solstræf in the east. A few star shoot, we looked at the vast sky and there was no doubt havd all three wanted.

         NB: It would today (2016) is a serious warning about altitude sickness and be as fast as possible, make sure to turn around and look down. S                                                                             

 T #  I was getting so tired, so every time I write a few meters, was breaking into tears and it felt totally meaningless. The goal was just far away, but stubbornness was stronger and they fought as it was the last and only thing that mattered in the world.
The last 15 meters up, we had to climb on boulders and snowdrifts. T

 

U #  Without really knowing it, I was sitting now beside a lot of flags and a sign and stared down at the stone I sat on. Only a few minutes later, I lifted his head and began to look around. To the east, one could see a large part of our planet, but trodsalt only a small spot. It was beginning to be lighter, but you could still see the stars. It was as if you could take them down with your hands. On the other hand, to the west, opened a huge crater, with soaring masses of snow in its interior. it was impossible to judge distances, but a shot would probably be a few hundred meters in diameter.

So our guide gave us "guestbook" and we then wrote our names. I wrote my name, Danish volunteer working for the National Youth Servise in Kenya and date of December 27, 1965, at. 5:45 pm. The time was five forty-five and the sun began to send the first rays of sunshine "up" against us. Fingers were like ice tabs , so it was only a few glimpses of my cine camera and quite like it had not been yet. Cold it was, and before we knew it, we were on the way back down. Our guide advised us to just be up there 20 to 30 minutes because of the height. U

 V  Kiliman points or Stilla points as it is called today in 2016, is the highest point on Kilimanjaro, but a point further north called "Uhuru Pount", 19,400 feet or a little over six kilometers high. The point we were located in approximately 18,600 foot elevation. V

  There may be no keyboard and spelling errors, but these will be continuously addressed when I proofread.